Backyard Grapes
Vertical GardensGardening

How to Grow Grapes – Backyard Grape Growing Secrets Revealed

Contrary to popular speculation or belief, growing grapes in your backyard are not as difficult as one may think. When someone mentions the idea of starting a grape garden, one may immediately assume that without acres of free land at their disposal, it will be almost impossible to be successful. This is NOT true!

 

 

Backyard Grapes

 

Many amateur grape growers today are content with their small vine gardens in their backyards. The grapes they produce are excellent for eating and making wine, and the little effort put into it has a high return.

 

As a full-time grape farmer, I have learned the secrets of what it takes to grow the best-tasting grapes for decades. As a child, I would work with my father on his farm planting and pruning grapevines all day long, and I continued working with him as a teenager and even now as an adult and family man. I want to teach you how to grow grapes and share the secrets of keeping a successful grapevine garden so that you, too, can enjoy what these delicious fruits offer.

 

First, backyard grape growing does not require expensive fertilizers or manures. You can get some really good vines from ordinary soil. Another goodie is that you won’t have to invest much time in your garden because the roots will seek out what they need. You only need to concern yourself with where to put the vine itself.

 

It is quite amazing that no matter where you plant your vines, you must train them around your house towards the good sunlit areas. That will work even better if you have an open garden where the sun hits all day long.

 

The best time to plant your grapevines is during the fall. Do not let the vines fruit during the first season of planting. Instead, always remember to cut down your vines to about four buds. This is because those four buds will become the strongest points and will lead the rest of the vine up the wall where you planted them. You want your grapevine to use all of its energy-producing strong wood for the next season because it is during the second season of growth that you get the best grapes.

 

Remember that the wood born this year will lead to next year’s fruits. So during the first year, clip away any flower buds that may form, thus making sure that the vine’s energy is focused on producing wood.

 

When pruning during the summer, you want to cut off all new growth while leaving the old wood to provide for future fruit. Only remove old growth when they become a straggling nuisance hanging all over your garden. When pruning in the fall or early winter, you should cut back the vines to about five to six buds only so that, once again, the vines will use all their energy to produce strong wood during the winter.

 

Most grapevines ripen during the late summer or early September. At this time, you can enjoy the best-tasting homegrown grapes and continue preparing your vines for future growth.

 

Wait! Don’t plant some grapevines you purchased at your local nursery and then wondered why you are getting poor results. Many of these vines came from other states and were cut from a healthy patch that will never have the strength to ripen once taken home. Learn the fundamental procedures of backyard grape growing first before making a mistake!

 

Matt Granger has been growing grapes for over 30 years and is an expert in backyard grape and grapevine farming. Visit his grape-growing website here

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How to BuildContainer Homes

How to Build a Shipping Container Home Step By Step

How to Build a Shipping Container Home Step By Step

 

One of the new trends in building a house is container houses. Sounds pretty cool and also saves money, the container has a great structure for house building. You can also build your container home with several containers so you can get more rooms. Start with a three-room container home (which requires three containers normally) if you are new to this project, make it safe and steady. You can add more rooms anytime you want. Follow this guide, I will show you how to build a container home step by step. Really nothing complicated, only your passion and patience are needed. You can make your home like me in several steps.

 

Shipping Container Home

 

Step 1 – Make your plan

 

Nothing can be done without planning. So the first step is to make your home plan, including home design, budget, and location. Next, make sure the house is legal to build on your land (Don’t miss this step). Every country has different regulations and laws, so it is best to check the rules online or asks a local professional opinion.

 

If you are building a container home, make sure you have prepared $110/m² for the budget. That’s a rough price; you can calculate the specific shipping container home cost according to your local conditions. Most importantly, work out the space you want or need. Because the space you need will determine the number of containers you need. The standard container dimensions are 8’’x20’’ and 8’’x40’’. You normally need 3-4 of them to build a house. If you don’t want to get things complicated, you can line three 8’’x20 containers up. You can use Google SketchUp to draw your design if you want to make a special design. Don’t limit your imagination. This is a great tool and easy to use. 

 

Step 2 – Buy Your Containers

 

There are many ways you can get a container. First, you can buy it from your local place, including used containers. If you buy from the local market, especially for a second-hand container, ensure you have inspected it with your own eyes. If you don’t know how they have used it before, check it and make sure your container is perfect and in good shape.

 

Another good plan is to buy your container from China, and you can buy your containers at Alibaba for new containers. This is a reliable platform I use a lot to import products from China. Make sure you have inquired about several suppliers and compared the price. Don’t jump to the cheapest supplier too quickly, and the risk is too high. Besides, I will not buy the most expensive one either. If you buy from China, it will take about 3-4 months to receive the products, so make your plan ahead of time.

 

Step 3 – Find an engineer.

 

If you are considering making some special container placement or making big modifications to your container, you must consult an engineer. Removing the structural components of a shipping container without reinforcing them may cause the container to be dangerous and unstable. Removing walls from a shipping container will severely weaken the container structure, and you need some steel beams to be welded into the container to make it safe and durable. Don’t get lazy; consult an engineer, and you will get a safe house. In addition, we have other steps that require the help of a qualified engineer; this is a step you can’t miss.

 

Step 4 – Building Foundations

 

When building a shipping container home, you need a base where the shipping container can be placed in. The foundation of a container home is various, but there are two leading factors you should consider, your budget and the environment. You don’t want some foundation that costs too much money, nor want a foundation that unfits your land condition, which may cause your whole project to fail.

 

I will not dig too deep into this issue; this is one of the few problems you need professional help with. You have found an engineer now. Judging the foundation type by yourself is too risky; let professional people work on professional problems. Nevertheless, I will give you a rough idea about this. There are three main foundations:

 

  1. Concrete Piers is the simplest and cheapest shallow foundation to go
  2. Slab-on Grade foundations are more expensive and are suitable for softer soil types.
  3. Pile Foundation is the most expensive foundation used when the soil type is too weak.

 

I think that would be enough for you; you don’t need to cost too much time on it if you have an engineer, you have a lot of other work to do.

 

Step 5 – Connect Your Shipping Containers

 

Before you connect your containers, you need a crane to place our containers, and this is the easiest way to do this. You can rent a crane from the builders, and this is easy and fast. There are many ways to connect shipping containers, including bolts, clamps, and welding. But I don’t approve of the bolts and clamps unless you need to move your container home often, but what’s the point is moving your home often? Not to mention you have already made the foundation. Welding is the most secure and safe way to connect your containers. It is not too difficult for someone who has never used it. But still, you can call for help from your friends and relatives or even hire someone to do this work for you. It all depends on you. Also, I must remind you that if you have not welded before, the welds will not look good. So let somebody else do the job for you if you are unwilling to take the risk.

 

Step 6 – Reinforce Your Containers

 

This step needs to be done before removing any components from your containers. also, start it before your roof building. Don’t make the wrong order, or you may face danger. I have no suggestions for the reinforcement methods because you need a qualified engineer or builder. This is highly recommended, and you had better follow your engineer. Normally you need steel to reinforce, but how to reinforce it requires a professional opinion, so I will leave this part to your engineer.

 

Step 7 – Do some cuttings.

 

Before this step, you may need a roof if you like. This is not necessary and guides for it. You can build any roof you like. Most people build a roof for appearance, you can build a wood roof if you like.

 

After reinforcing work, removing is safe now. Also, removing is not necessary, only if you want a window or a door between the container rooms. There are many ways to cut your windows and doors, including a plasma cutter, torch, grinder, and jigsaw. A plasma cutter can do all the work for you, and it’s clean and neat. If you don’t want to bother, I highly recommend you use a plasma cutter. If you have no experience in this job, please hire someone to do it for you. The cost is not high, and the work will be done in just several hours, so you don’t need to pay them for a long time.

 

Step 8 – Work on the container plywood floors

 

Why should I worry about the container floors? Yes, and you have to. The shipping container floors are treated with pesticides to prevent insects during sea transportation. These pesticides could harm human beings. So you should remove the container floors or at least encapsulate them with epoxy and create a building with a sub-floor on top of it. It is cheaper if you don’t do this step, but if you want a peaceful mind, do it. Meanwhile, for new containers that are entirely new, there is no need to do this.

 

Step 9 – Add doors and windows

 

After cutting the containers, here goes the door and windows. You can add whatever style of doors and windows you like. Add a wood door frame first, and then you can place your door. Make sure you have the frame fit your door size. The same goes for the windows. It will be lighter and better looking with some windows. For this part, if you can’t handle it alone, you can also call some friends to help or hire someone. Nothing different from standard windows installations, so this is it.

Step 10 – Power it up

 

After all the work, you can power your container home up now. It will cost you some time to build the power system, but it is worth it and inexpensive. Do the work; the earlier, the better. Because it would be hard for you to wire your container house later when your home is full of furniture and other things, the only difficulty of this part is drilling holes through your thick container walls. You can also bypass the wall and stick the wires around the wall. 

 

Follow my Simple Step-By-Step Plans to Learn How…

Horse Shed Plans
How to Build

Horse Run-In Shed Plans – Build A Great Shed With Free Plans

When I moved out into the horse country of Florida in 2010 with my family, we had grand plans to build the perfect horse barn on our new property. We envisioned a structure with lots of masonry and large timbers to match my surroundings. After all, beautiful horse farms drew us to the Bluegrass in the first place.

 

My, how things change. In our case, functional and flexible won over these loftier plans, but we couldn’t be happier with the result. Let’s face it: What does a horse really need? Beautiful barns are a monument to horses’ human caretakers rather than to the horses themselves. Wild horses were nomadic creatures of the steppes and windblown plains, superbly suited to extreme temperatures and weather. Subsequent domestication has developed an animal more suited to human endeavor but still not far removed from his ancestors.

 

Horses tolerate heat and cold much better than their human handlers. However, in most climates, horses do need to have shelter available from wind, precipitation, and sun. Inevitably, inclement weather blows in while you are not at the farm. Blankets that were too hot on horses earlier in the day can become soaked inside and out. If the horse is clipped for competition or other athletic endeavors, the natural defensive barrier of the winter hair coat has been removed. These horses do need a little help from their friends; a run-in shed could be that solution.

 

You might have a barn and wish to augment turnout with basic shelter for your herd; you might be considering temporary housing until you have the time and/or money to build a barn, or you could be reconsidering the need for a full-sized barn altogether. A highly adaptable run-in shed might be just what you are looking for and can meet any of these needs at a price that won’t break the bank.

 

Basic Design Concepts

The same rules apply to all kinds of horse housing—elaborate barns or the most basic run-ins. One of the most important decisions is where to place the building. Good natural drainage away from the building pad on all four sides is essential for horse health (as it reduces standing water and mud accumulation) and building longevity. If you build on the side of a slope, make sure you can cut the grade down on the high side to cause runoff to go around the shed instead of through it. Also, consider convenient access to the shed for occasional maintenance, its proximity to water and electricity, and the costs involved.

 

Once you have determined your shed’s general location, consider the prevailing winds. Our forefathers knew exactly how the winds worked on their farms and situated their buildings accordingly. Now, this essential information is not as obvious to those who spend our days inside or working off the farm. Typically a three-sided structure, the run-in should be oriented to protect horses from wind-driven rain, sleet, and the sun. If prevailing winds are out of the Southwest, for instance, the open side of most well-planned run-ins will face to the North or Northeast. This provides shade and wind protection except for the rare storm out of the Northeast. A south-facing open-faced shed will need a substantial overhang to provide adequate shade. 

 

Related Content: Managing Horses on Small Acreages (Podcast)

“Besides providing shelter, run-ins provide a useful means of catching and containing horses in need of medical examination or treatment,” adds Eric Peterson, DVM, an equine practitioner in Lexington, Ky. “They must be large enough to allow the animal to turn around and avoid injury as they are caught, but not so large that other horses turned out in the same field to interfere with the process.”

 

For instance, when constructing one of our run-ins, we centered it on a fence row with a flexible gate system that allows access to two different pastures or both. This allows us to segregate animals when we need to. Each half of the run-in is 16 feet wide–large enough to stand alone as protection for a few horses. We can open the full 32-foot width to either pasture when rotating by installing swinging gates in front of the run-in. When we open both pastures in the winter, we remove the gates to allow access from either pasture. This size accommodates six or more horses easily when fully opened. We rotate cattle and horses on our pastures, and both benefit from the protection it affords.

 

When determining your run-in’s size, consider the number of horses that will be turned out at any time. Horses need room to escape each other when they all want to be in the shed. An excellent general rule is to allow two horses per equivalent stall size of about 12-by-12 feet (i.e., a run-in for four horses would have 12 by 24 feet of space). These are loose rules that vary by horse breed and size; remember that crowding too many horses into a run-in is dangerous for horses and handlers and potentially damages the structure.

 

Herd dynamics should also affect run-in size decisions. According to Bob Coleman, Ph.D., PAS, associate director for undergraduate education in equine science and management and extension horse specialist at the University of Kentucky, another rule of thumb for shed size is 100 square feet of space per horse for the first two horses using the shelter and 50 square feet for each additional horse.

 

The shed walls should be a minimum of eight feet high at the low (back) side. The pitch of the roof depends on personal taste and climate requirements, but generally, it should not be less than 4 ½ or 4 inches of rising for every horizontal foot. The rise in the roof toward the open end will create a taller wall at the front of the shed. Often the front wall is left open up to eight feet high and sided above to ¬increase shelter from sun or precipitation.

 

Materials

Run-ins can be built from the same materials used for horse barns. Masonry is durable but expensive. Wood is less expensive but requires more maintenance. In any case, remember the horse will have access to both the inside and outside of every wall, so the building must be sturdy enough to withstand the occasional kick and should have no sharp edges on which a horse could scrape or cut himself. Metal-sided run-ins, the least expensive in most regions, should be lined with wood inside to prevent a horse from kicking through the walls and sustaining a serious injury. Also, eliminate sharp siding edges.

 

Prefabricated metal structures can be the quickest housing solution, shipped straight to your site. Use care to fasten these structures securely to terra firma to prevent wind damage. Run-in sheds, as a whole, are not designed to be portable. But many owners will move the sheds regularly (which often weakens the structure) or do not fasten them down sufficiently to endure wind and weather extremes.

 

These buildings are called run-ins because horses can and do run in when looking for shelter. Therefore, the footing needs to be a non-slip material. A run-in floor is typically natural earth augmented with at least 4 inches of Class I sand or a similar material–preferably atop geotextile fabric to reduce sand loss due to water runoff. This will provide a tough, easy-to-clean surface that will withstand pawing and exposure to urine. Some owners build a high-traffic pad (made of geotextile fabric, No. 4 crushed stone, and a dense grade aggregate installed over an excavated area) for drainage and then place the run-in shed on the pad, adds Coleman. Shavings can be used as a topper, but soiled shavings should be removed on a regular basis to avoid moisture buildup. Also, remove manure to prevent flies from gathering and breeding, though the need will be less frequent than in barn stalls since horses are not confined.

 

Case in Point

When we decided to build a free-standing run-in shed, we set a budget of only a few thousand dollars. We used six treated 6-by-6-inch posts set in concrete to create two bays, 10-by-16 feet each. We then built the roof with a front overhang to increase the sheltered area to approximately 14 feet in depth. The idea was to maximize roof area while keeping the front of the side walls far enough back to reduce the chance of a horse being trapped in a corner by an aggressive pasture mate. The overall shelter area was large enough for the six or so horses we anticipated would use it. The pitch is 7/12 (seven inches vertically per 12 inches horizontally), primarily for aesthetic reasons. Two large beams support the front roof structure because of the combined load of the main roof framing and the front overhang. The walls are constructed of vertical rough-sawn 1-by-6-inch lumber attached to horizontal framing material attached to the posts. We used hot-dipped galvanized nails for all fasteners and added a shingle roof to match other structures on the farm. Metal also would have worked well.

 

This run-in shed is now well over ten years old and has required no maintenance other than cleaning out the manure and replacing the footing with fresh Class I sand every few years. Also, as in all our equine housing, we check regularly for loose nails, sharp edges, or other apparent hazards.

 

We chose not to run power or water to this run-in because of its proximity to the barn and outside float waterers, although many owners opt to add these for convenience. Another common addition to this basic design is a hay storage area, often as a center room between two run-in areas. These vary from a few partitions made from pipe gates to fully enclosed rooms. This arrangement is particularly useful if your horses are housed in adjacent pastures for extended periods. Water at the shed might be useful for the same reason, although if you use a frost-proof hydrant, it should be separated from the turnout area to avoid potential injury.

 

An alternative run-in concept is created from a portion of an existing structure.

 

Take-Home Message

The main appeal of the run-in concept is the horse’s freedom to move about at will without human interference. You can design your shed as elaborate or as basic as you like and still adhere to this concept. A run-in shed’s flexibility makes it one of the most useful structures on a farm.

 

SHOP THE INTERNETS LARGEST SELECTION OF RUN-IN SHELTERS FOR YOUR ANIMALS!

Wild Edibles- Grape Leaf Chips
Off Grid

Wild Edibles- Grape Leaf Chips

In this video I make a tasty snack using grape leaves. They are a good source of nutrients, including vitamins C, E, A, K and B6, plus niacin, iron, fiber, riboflavin, folate, calcium, magnesium, copper and manganese. Grape leaves are an excellent wild edible, but they should never be confused

Wild Edibles- Pine / Spruce / Cedar / Fir- Evergreen Teas
Off Grid

Wild Edibles- Pine / Spruce / Cedar / Fir- Evergreen Teas

In this episode, I identify 4 common evergreen trees, and use their needles to make tea. I also compare the teas to see which one I like the best! White Pine Tea episode: source

Wild Edibles- Common Milkweed
Off Grid

Wild Edibles- Common Milkweed

Common Milkweed (Asclepias Syriaca) is a really delicious and nutritious plant, when properly cooked. In this episode, I show: 1. How to properly: identify, forage, and cook common milkweed. 2. How to avoid similar-looking toxic plants. Here are some key differences to help identify Common Milkweed from other similar plants:

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